Hi I'am new to this forum. Plus new to wire fishing. Last season was our first using wire lost a lot of tackle, basically from dipsy's back. Not to mention a few nice salmon(as it goes the big one of the day)would appreciate any suggestions & or advice. We've have to be doing something wrong losing 1 - 2 rigs per trip. All equipment new or in good shape. Those lost cut bait rigs & flasher etc are hurting the pocket book. Thanks in advance. Norm
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Welcome to Educated Angler - glad to have aboard. Couple of questions. You are losing the dipsey also? Are you using some form of shock leader like a snubber?Just like running any non-stretch line - wire or superline - you have to have some form of shock leader which essentially offers some give to handle the shock of the strike.
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Ans.# 1 no we are not losing Dipsy’s. Well maybe 1 due to kink in wire? Ans.# 2 yes using a shock snubber, was advised to use longer ones also did that no help. Seems problem stem at 30# ( Iron silk ) leaders between the different rigs as described earlier. Switched to 50# leader fish quit biting )-; at a loss. Norm
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Iron Silk may be the root of your problem - at Bassmaster University last winter we were told that the first production runs of Iron Silk had some sort of manufacturing flaw. I'll try to find the notes - but they had stopped production for a while and you need to find the new version of Iron Silk by manufacturing date or it's got something on the label that indicates if it's the new formulation. Apparently all of the pre-production line that pros were testing were fine - just screwed it up in manufacturing for the masses.
I use all hybrid flouro-leaders - I actually use Yo-Zuri in varying tests for leaders on everything. Besdies knots being a litte tougher to tie it has performed well - and no break offs.
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When running wire it is VERY important to use a snubber of some sort or you will break some off , I like the Fishlander snubber and the Wolverine/ Silver Streak snubbers , they have an unlimited stretch and no braid inside to stop the stretch and they are small diam. The snubber absorbes the shock on the strike but it also helps maintain constant presure on the fish , next you have to run your drags loose , to the point of they seem to slip a bit when the boat surges on waves and such , when the fish hits let them take line and then snug up the drag SLIGHTLY as you tire the fish. Rod action also has a role , you need a good rod that will load up good but have a decent tip to take the abuse of the fish on the strike and run. I NEVER run a braid for the leader , always 25# mono , floru will work also but it seems a bit more brittle and will break if not really kept an eye on.
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I agree with FR on straight flourocarbon which is why we chose Yo Zuri becasue it's a hybrid flouro wrapped nylon. Which I think gives the best of mono - stretch and flexibility - it's got the abrasion and nick resistance of flouro. I switched over from Berkley Big Game mono - and I can't say that I have had any worse or better performance from either, was jsut an experiment - I will say that the leaders seem to hold up better for me than the mono did - but that's just my gut feeling - I have no scientific proof.
As FR was saying and it makes sense to me that a good rod is key here - with wire and superline something has to take up the shock. The bass guys use it because it cuts through foilage ... allows them to use high test line on their baitcasters and spinning gear ... and they can yank fish out of cover quickly. I found on the superline and wire lines that I've fished that it is very unforgiving to mistakes - where I think a really good rod would help make up for that. Just a hypothesis.
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Tiara 3600 & Flatrate Hey you guy's have been great on the suggestions. Ok seeing I'm new to this wire stuff are Eagle Claw 81/2' all roller eyed rods (what I've been using) any good in your estimation? They seem to have the flexablity yet when need be the ability to steer the fish. I myself think T-3600 hit the nail on the head about the Iron Silk being the culpert. I've gotten in touch with the tech at Berkley & they never mentioned anything (and of course they would'nt) having a bad run of their product. T-3600 if it isn't to much of a hassle I'd like any info you may have on their flawed product. My downrigger rods are all spooled with YO-ZURI 20# & 25# test can't remember why I switched & start using that Iron Silk must been the Saturday morning fish programs (-: Again I appreciate the helpful suggestions an am making notes to try this Spring. Any more suggestions are also exceptable.
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I have the Eagle Claw 8 1/2 foot roller rods that I have tried , I think they work ok but as suggested earlier there are others that I would look at for wire as well. I personally have run Ande line for years with no problems , last year I switched to P-Line { ccx-15 and 17 pound } for my riggers and I have to say that is what I am sticking with now. I run Power-Pro { 65 pound} for my slide divers and {30 pound } for braided divers. I did run 20 pound wire last year and think it was more hassel than it was worth , I didn't notice any increase in my catch rate and I am going back to 30 wire this year as it is a little easier to work with. My sliders are all 15 and 17 pound P-Line Flouru. leader material and my diver leaders are P-Line 25/30 mono. I also run the Flouro. leader material as leaders on my lead-core if I can but after the year goes on and I have cut and retied several times I run out of the P-Line Fouro. leader material and will just put the P-Line mono on as a leader in a pinch and it seems to work fine. There is a lot of good lines out there , the key is to make sure it is good quality and reasonably fresh. And check your line frequently for nicks and burrs and cut and retie offten.
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cut and retie often - that is a FACT. everytime I bring a line I check it - especially after bringing a fish in. You don't need to lose to many fish when you didn't check it to get paranoid LOL
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Guess I’m sort of stuck with the yellow RODS for a while anyway, the boss would probably keel hull me if she noticed new ones. :-] guess I could try to break them while she was aboard & bedamn the RODS [-: ? The reason I put up with the wire hassle is do to the action even a 5-10 lb salmon will put up at the other end. (-:
When you used, Andre line did you not find it to curl up around rod tip? I know I’ve called Andre, they said I was reeling against the drag EXCUSE ME I live to hear that reel scream the boss doesn’t even reel against the drag. That’s why I switched to Yo - Zuri, I find there is a whole lot less of the curling. I realize mono & fluorocarbon lines all have memory but that was a little too much of a PITA with Andre. The only trouble is finding Y-Z in large spools.But as I typed this I thought Andre made one strip 20' - 30' of line off to alleviate the nuisance. I’ll give P-line a try on a couple of reels this coming season see how I like it, & that was CUT & RE-TIE right (-: T3600
By the way what Ports do U guy’s fish out of? I myself fish from the Thumb area to Rogers City, primarily around Port Austin MI. if interested. One more season like the past & I’ll be taking her around to Lake MI., Lake Trout galore )-: Brown’s in good #s Steelies hit & miss & King’s a disaster & small, boats largest king this season just short of 19 lb } - : Well I better go this is turning into a book.
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The Eagle Claw rods will work ok for you , make sure to run the drags on the loose side and keep the rods turned so the wire stays on the rollers , even when trolling the rods try to rotate a little on you and then the wire isn't on the rollers. I run my boat out of Manistee but I try to fish all over the state on both lakes. I have fished P.A. a lot in the past but not recently , some of the town people acted like they didn't like the fishermen in their town and we didn't feel welcome so we spend our money some where else now . I used to leave my boat in Harbor Beach about 12 years ago and I used to mate for a Capt. out of Grindstone and have fished just about every port on lake Huron except for Alpena. Manistee , Ludington and Frankfort are my most frequented ports but also get to St. Joe and Grand Haven a couple times a year.
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All good info above. I'll add that it only takes 6# of pressure to bottom out the Dacron inside of the old stand-by snubbers. They don't stretch very far before "hitting the wall" either. When a salmon hits a wire dipsey, it hits like a middle linebacker on a blitz! I like a quality snubber like those made by Wolverine or Fishlander for their "bottomless" stretch and consistant pressure. Not only will you lose less tackle but also fewer fish due to ripped out hooks.
A southbound salmon hits a northbound dipsey rig at "x" mph... LJ snubber: stretchsnapgone Wolverine/Fishlander snubber: S-T-R-E-T-C-H
Jim...I Fish Therefore I Am
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welcome wingnut - well 6# ain't very much shock absorption - that's good to know -note to self - go throw out LJ snubbers and stick the offshores. I wonder what the heck LJ was thinking - it's kinda like planned absolensce - it you don't break off dipsey you wont buy as much
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Sorry to hear of your bad experience in P.A.( Did you live there) but it seems to be getting worst as they build more & more high priced condos & home in the area . I was wondering if you’d mind if I’d show City council a copy of your message this Spring when I return. It was brought up at one of the meeting & they sort of rolled their eyes this may bring their hoytty totty arses back to reality. Seeing U fished the West side quite often have U ever ran across a Capt. John Danes ? What Capt. did you mate for out G/S/C , I know a few might know him. What is the availability on seasonal slips for a 32'er & a ball park slip fee on that side of the state. PS what is the little caption alewifes mean?
Post edited by: ohmless1, at: 2004/12/17 21:10
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