|Lake Michigan Downrigger Basics|
|Written by Capt. Mike Gnatkowski - Gnat's Charters|
|Thursday, 31 May 2007 09:14|
Downriggers were invented on Lake Michigan. Manufacturers like Big Jon, Invader, Riviera, Cannon, and others can all trace their roots to Michigan’s fledgling salmon program back in the late 1960’s and early ‘70’s. Downriggers were the brainchild of industrious anglers fervent with Coho fever who were experiencing the thrill of the first return of salmon to their planting sites, and the frustrations of not being able to catch them.
The early downrigger designs were nothing more than a coffee can filled with cement with ten-foot increments marked along the string that the weight was lowered on. Releases were usually clothespins or something similar. The archaic downriggers were crude to say the least, but the devices planted a seed that evolved into what we know today as precision controlled-depth fishing.There is a lot more to downrigger fishing than just attaching a cannonball and lowering it into the water. In fact, simple things like the weight, shape and color of the cannonball are factors that can contribute to your success or lack of it.
Most anglers buy into the theory that cannonballs or downrigger weights need to be as unobtrusive as possible. Black or other dark-colored cannonballs become invisible or inconspicuous at depth. The addition of prism tape to the fin adds a little attraction to imitate a school of baitfish or feeding salmon. I have a friend though who swears by yellow or chartreuse cannonballs. He claims they attract fish into his spread. The number of fish he puts on the board every day would seem to lend some credence to that theory. To each his own.
Manufactures won’t like to hear this, but one of the best and most consistent downriggers releases ever made is a number 18 rubber band. Rubber bands are inexpensive, consistent and produce positive hook-ups. Rubber band stretch when a fish grabs the lure instead of just “popping free” like when a conventional downrigger release is used. Hook-ups are sure and solid. The rubber band can be half-hitched on your line and then attached to a device made to hold rubber bands, like Big Jon’s Band Buster, or you can slide it on to a large, open snap. Another option that I use is to lay the rubber band parallel to your line, wrap the rubber band around your line three or four times and then grab the loops at both ends of the rubber band and slide them onto the snap, which acts as your release. This effectively doubles the strength of your rubber band and produces sure hook-ups even when fish are deep. Another trick I learned years ago is to add a three-foot length of downrigger cable off your cannonball to act as a release. I use a Tru Trac Klincher on each end of the cable. One end is attached to the cannonball; the other I leave open to hold my rubber band release. When I take up the slack on the rod once the ‘rigger is set, the cable and rubber band release are pulled up slightly upward, higher than the cannonball. I like my rods to be torqued over as tight as possible with no slack in the line and the rod almost parallel to the water. That way, all the rods are in the same plane, they can be easily seen; there is little slack when a rod releases and a strike is instantly visible. When a fish grabs a downrigger lure with this set-up, the rod doesn’t stand straight up with the line totally slack. Instead, the rod tip is usually jabbing towards the surface of the water. The fish pulls the cable and rubber band downward instantly at the strike, usually you have the rod in your hands before the fish breaks the rubber band so you can really stick it to ‘em or you pop the rubber band release and drive the hook home. Either way, there is no slack in the line at any point. My hook-up percentage with downriggers speaks for itself. The same rig can improve you hook-up success when using pinch-pad releases, too. And it makes grabbing the release easier in rough water.
Most successful captains have a trolling pattern that they set when using downriggers be it a V, W, M or fence. The idea is to create a productive trolling pattern and minimize tangles. Generally, the deeper downriggers are in the center and set progressively shallower to the outside of the spread. As a rule, the deeper the ‘rigger, the shorter the length of lead from cannonball to lure; the shallower the ‘rigger, the longer the lead. Nothing is set in stone. Spoons can be set as close as five feet apart on downriggers. It is wise to keep dodgers and flashers that swing in a wide arc no closer than 10 feet apart. Sliders or stacks add to the productiveness of any trolling spread. Sliders can be either fixed or free. I NEVER use free sliders. If my downriggers are working at 50 or 60 feet, I don’t want my sliders running at 25 or 30 feet like they do if they are allowed to freely find their own depth at the bow in the line. I want them down there where the fish are active!
I usually fix my sliders five feet above the cannonball and bottom lure using Legendary Tackle’s Elberta Clip’r. The Clip’r holds my lure securely, comes on and off quickly and creates resistance that helps me hook fish that hit the sliders. For more information on the Elberta Clip’r contact Legendary Tackle at www.legendaryproduct.com or call (231) 223-7790. By running my sliders five feet above my bottom lures, if I have my downriggers set at 60, 50 and 40 feet I also have lures at 55, 45 and 35 feet when I’m using sliders. That’s what we call creating an effective trolling pattern.
With lead core, in-line planers, wire divers and other tactics all the rage on the Great Lakes these days anglers forget just how productive downriggers can be. Try these tricks and downriggers will again be a mainstay in your Lake Michigan arsenal.
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